Once the base coats were complete, I weathered the boards using sponge weathering and dabbing on Rhinox Hide: I painted the sponsor boards with a range of GW colors, but you can also get them pre-printed in color with new or weathered variants. Ironheart Artisans Blood Bowl Sponsor Board painted by Crab-stuffed Mushrooms Once drybrushing was complete, I sealed the terrain with Testor’s Dullcote. The ground was drybrushed with Dryad Bark, followed by a drybrush of Gorthor Brown, with a final light drybrush of Ushabti Bone. The lighter wooden scoreboard was drybrushed with Mournfang Brown, followed by a drybrush of Ushabti Bone. The darker wood scoreboard was drybrushed with Gorthor Brown, followed by a drybrush of Ushabti Bone. Note: You can paint the contrast directly on to the MDF, but the color will be darker. As an experiment, I airbrushed Contrast paint directly on to the MDF without primer: Most tutorials suggest priming MDF before painting, since the wood could absorb the paint – but I didn’t want to risk obscuring the laser-etched detail with primer. Throw it all in a container and save it for future projects. You can get a combination of materials from local hardware and pet stores. I keep a large bucket of sand, gravel, pebbles and other detritus for basing terrain. I based the terrain using Buffalo Chicken’s method from a previous tutorial and sealed the bases with primer. If you don’t feel like painting the sponsor boards yourself, you can order painted and weathered versions from their site. Ironheart Artisans Sponsor Board painted by Crab-stuffed Mushrooms In addition to scoreboards, they also have several sponsor boards: I can tell you that this procedure is a hell of a lot easier to pull off than if you try to make the stripes in freehand and for me it is definitely the way to go looking forward.Ironheart Artisans Scoreboards painted by Crab-stuffed Mushrooms The scores should guide your brush leaving you with a perfect colored stripe with sharp borders. I use black as it contrasts well with everything. Paint the borders in your preferred color. Before you begin that process, it pays to learn what makes each team unique so you can choose the best fit for your style. Your job as coach is to hire the best raw talent and craft them into champions. When the miniature has been fixed to the base you can go ahead and prime the whole thing white (Or whatever color you prefer). Blood Bowl is played by a huge variety of different teams, each with their own preferred style, player positions, strengths, and weaknesses. Take care not to cut yourself when trying this.Īt this point you will want to glue your miniature to the base. When done flip the base around and repeat. The knife should be resting on the table allowing you to slowly turn the base around creating an even score in the base. Start by scoring the base with a sharp knife. Up until now I have always done them in freehand, but in the future I will be doing them in the following way. I often get asked how I paint the base rings on my Blood Bowl miniatures. I always follow these guidelines when I paint my base rings, but the color is not really important as long as you can tell the miniatures apart. The original position colors were as follows: Blitzer: That’s why I love base rings! Base rings were introduced in the 2 nd edition of Blood Bowl (I think) and by using them you can make your players’ positions immediate to your opponent. “My blitzers are the ones with slightly more spikes than the others…” Really? Also, it’s rather time consuming when you constantly have to ask your opponent what his playing pieces represent.
It can be very frustrating if there is no easy way to tell whether you are blocking a black orc or a goblin. Every Blood Bowl player will at some point have tried to play a match where it was hard to tell your opponent’s miniatures apart.
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